Posts Tagged ‘After Market’
SURE Motorsports’ ShortCut Installation DIY
For the installation of the SURE Motorsports’ ShortCut you only need 10 minutes and 2 additional tools if you have a short-ram intake already installed. If not see the DIY on how to install the SURE Motorsports’ Aeros in order to remove the OEM Intake system to gain access to the shift linkage within the engine bay.
NOTE: It is best to do this when the engine is cold. The MAF housing of the SURE Aroes and the coolant pipe by the Shift Linkage get very hot to the touch. Even the counterweight gets hot. SO to avoid burning yourself wait for the engine to cool down before you install.
Where is it:
To access the shift linkage to install the ShortCut you will enter the engine from the top and it is located under the Intake.
+ click to enlarge image
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench
- 12mm socket
- Needle-nose pliers
- Gloves (not pictured)
- Hex provided by SURE Motorsports
- Loctite provided by SURE Motorsports
- magnet extension (because I always drop things!)
+ click to enlarge image
What to do:
(1) First thing is to remove the linkage from the plate. Simply pry it off with the needle nose pliers. (2). Now detach the counterweight using 12mm socket wrench. (3-4) Once this is done, slide the ShortCut over the old linkage plate so that the holes go under the current plate.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Now we use the screws that were provided by SURE Motorsports and the loctite. (2-3). Coat the screws in Loctite and reinstall counterweight using the new screws and the supplied hex wrench. Tighten screws firmly. (4) Attach Shift linkage to knob on ShortCut plate by pushing it down on top. This does not require a lot of force.
+ click images to enlarge
That’s all there is to it! You are all set and ready for a much shorter throw.
A word of caution. Due to the syncros of the Mazda transmissions this does not allow you to increase your shifting speeds. It shortens the shift throw and, in essence, increases your shifting speed. However, shift normally and you will not get that horrific clanking or grinding sounds. I will have a more detailed explanation on this in my review after further testing.
SURE Motorsports’ TIG Installation
For the installation of the SURE Motorsports’ TIGs you will need about 2-4 hours, depending on how savvy you are around an engine. While the entire installation can be done without lifting your car there are many bolts and clasps that need to be removed or pinched and this can take a while. Also, you will want to make sure that the engine has time to cool down since it gets very hot in there!
Where is it:
To access the intake manifold and throttle body you will enter the engine from the top.
+ click to enlarge image
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench with extensions (long and short extensions)
- 7mm-12mm deep sockets
- 22mm open wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flat head screw driver
- Universal joint extension (bending extension).
- Magnet in case you drop a bolt!
- Gloves (not pictured)
- Anti-freeze to top off what you may loose when pulling hoses.
- lock-tight
- Sea Foam to clean up some carbon if you want to!
+ click to enlarge image
What to do:
(1) Open up the engine as pictured above and remove the cover and top mounted inter cooler (1). To remove the inter cooler remove the three bolts, 2 in front and one in back, as well as loosen the hose clamps and bypass valve attached to the inter cooler (2-4). Once this is done lift the inter cooler off and place carefully to the side.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Now remove the vacuum regulator, black box, from on top of the intake manifold. There are 4 screws. Now we start disconnecting some sensors. (2-4) The sensor in the front with a blue clip is a little tricky. Using a flathead or needle nose pliers push out the clasp in the back of the sensor. They separate outward. once they are started you can use your tools to pull back on it to slide it off. Once the clasp is removed you will pull up on the hose to remove it. (5) Squeeze and pull up on the big grey sensor on the left hand side of the intake manifold to detach it. (6) now detach and remove the sensor next to the intake manifold valve pump. This is located to the top right of the intake manifold. (7) To remove the sensor connected to the throttle body, slide back the red tab to loosen the clasp. There is also a MAP sensor attached to the left side of the intake manifold. Sorry, I forgot the picture but is is behind the big Grey Sensor and bracket. This requires a single 7mm socket. Once the bolt is removed, carefully wiggle out the sensor from the intake manifold.
+ click images to enlarge
Now lets tackle the throttle body. (1-3) Remove coolant lines. MAKE SURE ENGINE HAS COOLED DOWN. Coolant will spill during this process and can burn you. Pinch the clamps and move them back on the hose then using needle nose pliers, twist the hose to loosen. Then pull to remove them. (4) Now remove the inter cooler throttle body pipe from the throttle body. If you were as fortunate as me, and Mazda installed the clamp bolt under the hose, use a deep socket 10mm and feel your way around until the socket is snug over the bolt, then loosen. When you reinstall this later move the bolt so it is easier to access in the future. (5) Remove 4 bolts that secure the throttle body to the intake manifold as seen in image 4. (6) Then remove metal gasket and maybe spray it down with some Sea Foam to clean it up. As you can see the MS3 is prone to crazy amounts of carbon buildup and oil overflow (but that is a whole other post!).
+ click images to enlarge
Removing the intake manifold is the fun part! (not really!). (1) First we start with loosening the ERG tube. This requires a 22mm 0pen wrench. (2-3) Next we will remove the sensor mount from the intake manifold on the front left, the one the big gray sensor is attached to. There are 2 bolts. While you are here you can find the bolt where the dipstick tube mounts to the intake manifold and remove that as well (not pictured, you have to feel around for it).
+ click images to enlarge
Finally, we get to the intake manifold itself. (1-3) Loosen the 5 top bolts. Do not completely remove yet. This is so you do not cause any unnecessary strain on the intake manifold. We will count bolts clockwise. Bolt one is pictured in image 2, Bolts 2-4 are easily accessible from the front-top of the intake manifold and bolt 5 is highlighted in image 3. (4) Remove bolt 6 which attaches the fuel rail cover. Bolt 7 is the tricky one. (5-6) This you will need your universal joint extension to get to and it is located at the bottom of the fuel rail cover. (7) Remove the 8th and final bolt. This is located under the throttle body inlet.
+ click to enlarge images
1st Generation MS3:
You must loosen your steering pump. 2nd Genneration MS3s do not need to do this. (1) Completely loosen top 2 bolts and only loosen bottom bolt to swivel the steering pump out of the way to access the first bolt.
+ click images to enlarge
Now remove all bolts and we should be able to lift out the intake manifold. Forcefully pull the ERG tube out of the way, out and down. (1) However, because there is still a hose attached, which you can remove if you want to, but don’t have to, it will not come out completely. You can see this hose clearly when it is removed. You do not need to completely remove the intake manifold to install the TIGs. But if you want to spray it down with some Sea Foam, you should completely remove it for better access. I detached the Spark plug sensors to move wires out of the way so you can see the hose better. (2) Get the intake manifold gasket ready to go. Also be sure to take warning off and grab the TIG washer for use on the lower mount point. (3) Remove the metal gasket and replace it with the SURE TIG. With the SURE engraved tab facing towards you and on the top left, slide the TIG into place.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Getting the bottom TIG washer in is a bit difficult. Gravity and the ERG tube like to fight you and make you wish you had 3 hands. (2-3) You can try an light adhesive or lock-tight to pre-mount the washer or finesse it in while you slide the intake manifold back into place. BE CAREFUL, because it can easily fall behind the starter and disappear! Do not worry though. If it is too difficult, just leave it off and DO NOT use the bottom bolt (8th) when you reinstall. Yes, I lost mine behind the starter and did not end up using it. Everything is fine!
+ click images to enlarge
To get the intake manifold back on you will need to finesse it in. Slide it down carefully as to not break the studs, all the while, holding back the ERG tube. (1) Once that is done and you did not loose the washer 
, hand screw in bolt 8 and 3 with plenty of slack. (2) We need to tighten the ERG tube first. If you do not do this first the threads will not sync properly. Once the ERG tube is fully tightened proceed with install bolts 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 8. DO NOT install bolts 6 and 7 and bolt 8 is optional ( Do not install bolt 8 if you do not use the TIG Washer). Also, “Walk” the tightening process of the bolts. I went back over each bolt 3-4 times until they all were nice and flush. This allows you to evenly distribute the pressure as you tighten the intake manifold.
DISCLAIMER: You can easily crack the manifold if you over tighten bolts. I recommends no more than 18lbs of torque. To be safe I used some lock-tight to make sure the bolts stayed and I tighten them firmly by hand and I will check on them a little later to make sure they stayed tight. I hand tightened mine so it was snug but did not use leverage to tighten. Nothing cracked!
+ click images to enlarge
Once your manifold has been securely bolted up it is now time to mount the throttle body TIG. (1) Place the TIG on the throttle body so that the SURE logo engraved tab is to the top left. Use a bolt to help it stay in place. (2) This tab is not only for design but allows you to easily position the gasket for the second bolt. (3) Then securely fasten the throttle body to manifold. DO NOT OVER TORQUE. If you would like to do the Coolant Bypass of the throttle body, now is the time. Go to the Coolant Bypass DIY now or skip to the final stages of putting you engine back together below.
+ click images to enlarge
The hard part is over! Now we just wipe down any liquids that do not belong and start putting everything back into its place. (1) Replace the throttle body pipe and coolant lines. (Picture below shows throttle body pipe reinstalled with Coolant Bypass.). Also notice I made the clamp bolt easier to access for the future. Now start attaching all brackets and sensors as well as the oil dipstick tube back to their respective places. Because the second bolt of the Grey Sensor bracket was such a pain in the ass, I did not use the bolt. (2) If you did not use the bottom bolt of the intake manifold or the bottom bolt to the Grey Sensor bracket then you should have 4 Bolts remaining when done. (3) If you did the Coolant Bypass like me, your leftover hardware will look like image 3.
+ click images to enlarge
Finally, be sure to top off your coolant if needed and start her up! If all your sensors are correctly plugged in and everything is securely fastened you should not get a CEL. If you do then you missed something! See my Review of the TIGs if you want more information on them.
Review of SURE Motorsports TIG
First of, I did some stat logging from my COBB AP Tuner. I watched my boost temperatures for about 2 days. Here is what I logged:
Pre Installation:
Day 1:
Morning: 68 degrees. At 65mph+ I stayed between 85 and 92 degrees. At idle I was around 115 degrees. This was a 20 minute drive with no traffic on 95 south. I data logged a third gear pull and went from 100 degrees at 3500 rpm to 87.8 at 6077 rpm back to 96.8 at 6700 rpms.
Afternoon: 80 degrees. Did a couple 3rd gear pulls as I was fine tuning my COBB AccessPort. My Boost Air Temp was at 129 degrees at idle and down to 114.8 degrees under boost.
Day 2:
Morning: 70 degrees. At highway speeds it was reading a steady 91 degrees. At Idle it was reading at 120 degrees. I did a 3rd gear datalog again and temps ranged from 96 to 102 during the pull from 3000 to 6700 RPMs.
Afternoon: 82 degrees. Did a couple 3rd gear pulls while monitoring with the COBB AccessPort. My Boost Air Temp was at 131 degrees at idle and down to 116 degrees under boost on average.
Post Installation:
After the install of the SURE Motorsports’ TIG I did notice a drop in boost temperatures. It was not drastic but it did drop a bit. The TIG installation I did was the single intake manifold TIG and Throttle Body TIG, as well as, the coolant bypass on the throttle body.
Day 1:
Morning: 72 degrees. This morning I drove the car normal with my typical commute to work. Under normal throttle, barely entering closed loop or going Wide-Open-Throttle (WOT). My temperatures stayed around 85-90 degrees. At idle my temperatures stayed at about 106 degrees.
Afternoon: 86 degrees. I logged a couple pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear. Both times the temperatures stayed between 98 and 104 degrees.
Day 2:
Believe it or not the temperatures were exactly the same and with my logs and watching my COBB AccessPort, the readings were the same within a degree or 2 of variation.
Conclusion:
+ click image to enlarge
This modification has lowered my boost temperatures by about 15 degrees at Idle and 10 degrees under normal driving conditions and about 5 degrees at WOT. It also reduced Knocking in my engine from 3000-4000 RPMs without adjusting my tune. You may be asking, “Why so little at WOT”? Think about how fast the air is moving through your engine at this point. The only way to lower temperatures drastically at WOT is via an upgraded Top-Mounted Inter Cooler (TMIC) or Front-Mount Inter Cooler (FMIC). However, the TIGs will help keep the air cooler throughout it’s travels!
Rating:
5 of 5
Even though the temperature didn’t significantly reduce in WOT I still give this product a 5 of 5 because of 2 things. First, The quality is top notch. The SURE TIGs are virgin grade PTFE -400°F up to 500°F and is a reusable gasket. Re-usability is a bonus! Second, Temperatures did reduce. It did exactly what it was suppose to do and if I were to add the second gasket to the intake manifold it would be even more significant. Also, you do not need a lift to do the installation. If you are mechanically inclined this installation should take no more than 2-3 hours max. If you don’t include engine cool down time!
How to Adjust Rear Suspension Dampening on 2010 MS3
As stated in my article about the BC Racing Coilovers, in order to adjust the rear dampening you must remove all the paneling in the rear trunk compartment. This DIY will show you just how to do it in about 20 minutes. Remember, with the BC Racing Coilovers for the Mazdaspeed 3 you have a total of 32 points of adjustment. Position 1 being the softest and position 32 being the hardest.
Where is it:
To access the dampening controls for the BC Racing Coilovers you must remove the paneling inside your trunk. You can see in the second image that the controls are just behind the seatbelt spool.
+ click to enlarge image
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench
- 10mm sockets
- fillips head screw driver
- Flathead or punch to pop anchors
- Needle-nose pliers
- Gloves
+ click to enlarge image
What to do:
Start by removing the (1) spare tire cover and (2)foam from around the spare tire. (3) This will expose all the necessary push-pins that we need to remove to pull out the rear kick plate. (4) Using a flat head or punch, pop out the push-pins and completely remove them from the hole. (5) Once you have removed the 2 push-pins on the left and right, with 2 hands, at shoulders length apart, grab under the panel and carefully pull up to remove the panel.
+ click images to enlarge
Now that we have exposed more push-pins for the side panels we can start removing all anchors. (1) First we remove the anchors as pictured by exposing the bolt to loosen the anchor. (2) Using a 10mm socket wrench completely loosen the bolt to pop out anchor. (3) Once that is removed, removed the other anchor to completely free up the back of the panels. (4) while we are in the back of the car we should expose the screw holding on the seatbelt cover panel. using a fillips head screw driver, remove the screw. (5) Next remove the anchor that is behind the seat backs as pictured below.
Be sure to do this for both sides of the trunk.
+ click images to enlarge
Now lets move to the front of the trunk by going through the rear doors. Here you will see a few push-pins we need to remove. (1) Remove the push-pins from the seat belt cover panel. (2) Then, down by the back seat hinge we need to remove another push-pins. (3) carefully pry the panel loose. You do not need to completely remove this panel. (4) Once the panel is loose you will see the hidden push-pin that you must remove in order to remove the seat belt cover panel. (5) Once again, gently pry off the seat belt cover panel. (6) This will expose the trunk side panel for removal.
Be sure to repeat on both sides.
+ click images to enlarge
Now we are all set to remove the trunk side panels to expose the BC Racing Coilover dampening controls. (1) Starting from the rear, begin to pry off the panel carefully. (2) To make things easier for you I would suggest pulling it out entirely to give you a comfortable amount of room to access the dampening controls. (3) You can see the BC Racing Coilover dampening controls now. (4) To adjust them you access them from the top, in. (5) This image show the left side exposed as well.
Be sure to adjust both sides!
+ click images to enlarge
If you are an avid racer and plan on doing a lot of adjustments I would leave the panels off until you have the proper settings. (1) This is how I go to the track. Even though this DIY should take you about 20 minutes, it can add up after a while as you tweak for that perfect setting. Once, I am done tracking the car or if I have the setting I know I will be happy with, only then would I suggest putting the panels back on.
Also, Don’t forget about the front suspension. (2) Just pop the hood and twist away to the best setting for your racing environment.
+ click images to enlarge
Review for the Mazdaspeed 3 BC Racing Coilover Suspension
Overview
I have been running my BC Racing coilover suspension for my Mazdaspeed 3 for well over 2,000 miles now. I have run the suspension dampening at 16 and 32 with a ride height set at 1 inch during my testing. The BC Racing coilover suspension for the mazdaspeed 3 allows you to easily adjust the ride height and dampening of the struts with over 32 points of adjustment with position 1 being the softest setting and position 32 being the firmest setting. For my installation I did not completely slam it due to the fact that I contend with speed bumps, potholes, and iffy winters where I live. I also did not want to roll the rear fenders, which you will have to do if you lower the suspension all the way.
Installation
The installation for this suspension system is not for the faint of heart. It will take a pro about 2 hours and a DIY-er such as myself, about 4 hours. The front suspension is the hardest to install, however, the rear is easy and quick. You can see the DIY for installing the BC Racing suspension here.
Tuning
The BC Racing coilover suspension turns out to be a very well made and functional system and it is not just for show, although it shows nicely! It is built for the track, whether you are auto crossing or hitting the drag strip the easy access dampening controls can get you fine tuned for either, quickly. However, at no fault to BC Racing, the 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 makes it difficult to access the rear dampening controls. You must remove the side panels within the trunk to access them. I have heard it is much easier to access on earlier models though.
Handling and Ride
So how does all this translate to handling and ride? It translates very nicely, indeed. Stability and stickiness to the road or track are increased ten-fold. Depending on your settings, body roll is nearly eliminated around S-turns keeping all 4 wheels firmly planted on the road. The stock suspension of the 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 can handle 0.96g’s in the skid pad. I have a very strong feeling that this suspension system will crush that number and go side by side with a Porsche Carrera in handling. But that is just my personal opinion and is not tested to my knowledge.
The ride is a lot stiffer as to be expected. You feel every bump, hump, groove and crack in the road. More so the harder you set the dampening. 32 is bone jarring, however, I found that at 16, about half way, it is a very comfortable ride even though it is more aggressive than the stock suspension.
Rating:
5 of 5
As you can see you really can’t go wrong with the BC Racing coilover suspension and just when you think it can’t get any better… yet another plus to the BC Racing coilover suspension is the price. A completely new suspension system can be purchased for as low as $999.00. I would personally be willing to pay $1,500 for this system! The amount of control, custom tuning and increase to handling and stability all packaged for perfect fitment makes this product one of the biggest bangs for the buck I have yet to see for the Mazdaspeed 3.
SURE Motorsports’ Shift Anchor Installation
For The installation of the SURE Motorsports’ Shift Anchor you will need about 30 minutes and very few tools. You will do a lot of pulling and prying of the center console so be careful but firm.
Where is it:
To access the Shift anchors you must open up your center console.
+ click to enlarge image
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench with extension
- 10mm sockets
- Needle-nose pliers
- wire splicers (works better for popping off shifter links)
- Gloves
+ click to enlarge image
What to do:
(1) Make sure the E-brake is up and you remove shift knob and then (2-3) start by opening the cup holder and removing it by hand. (4) Now pry apart the sides to loosen panels around shifter and lift from the front. (5-6) remove panel and unhook 12v connector to expose shifter.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Now with your shifter exposed (2) you can start removing wire harnesses from the shifter. (3) with the wire splicers or needle nose pliers you can remove the shift links. Just place between link and shift carriage and pry until they pop out. (4) With your extension and socket wrench remove the 4 bolts that hold the shifting carriage. (5) Then remove it completely to gain access to the anchors.
+ click to images to enlarge
Take the shifter to a table to be able to handle it better. (1-3) Using needle nose pliers start punching out the stock anchors. (4) remove rubber anchor inserts.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Lay out the Sure Motorsports’ anchors. You will notice some have a symbol on them. Also, the anchors are color coded. 2 pair are a slightly lighter blue. Make sure these stay together during assembly. (2) The go in a specific spot on the underside of the shift carriage. (front is in the right of this picture) (3) Once you have these lined up place them on the floor in the proper spots. (4) Carefully, as to not move the bottom anchors to much, lay the shift carriage over them. (5) insert the screw into the top anchor and (6) slide into place.
Note: I would loosely tighten down all anchors before final tightening. This is so you have some play if you are slightly off in other corners.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Now fully tighten down all anchors and reattach the wire harness and shift linkage. (2) Reconnect 12v and other plugs to panel and (3) snap panel back into place. (4) replace cup holder and shift knob.
That’s all there is to it, happy shifting!
+click images to enlarge
Mazdaspeed 3: SURE Motorsports’ Aeros and Sidewinder Install
For The installation of the SURE Motorsports’ Aeros Short-ram intake and the Sidewinder turbo inlet pipe there is no need to lift the car and it will take about an hour. Before you start this install, disconnect your battery. This will reset the ECU so when you install the new parts the car can adjust properly for maximum gains. You can find a Review of the Aeros short-ram intake and Sidewinder Turbo inlet pipe for more information here.
Where is it:
The Stock intake and Turbo inlet are located to the right of the engine in front of and between the battery box and engine.
+ click to enlarge image
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench with extension
- 8mm, 10mm and 12mm sockets
- Flathead and fillips head screw drivers
- Allen wrenches
- Needle-nose pliers
- Gloves
+ click to enlarge image
What to do:
First, start ripping everything out. (1) Remove the intake by removing the bolt and loosening the clamp to the stock turbo inlet pipe. (2) Remove the MAF sensors and (3) wires clamped to the intake, needle nose pliers come in handy here. (4) You are left with the intake tube. (5) Loosen the rear clamp of the tube and (6) pull it out.
+ click images to enlarge
Now your stock intake is removed. If you do not have the Sidewinder Turbo inlet from SURE Motorsports you can skip down to the part where we install the intake.
Installing your new Sidewinder turbo inlet pipe
To install the Sidewinder turbo inlet pipe you must remove the battery box and intercooler cover to make life a lot easier for yourself. I found this out the hard way! (1) remove intercooler cover, there are 4 bolts. (2) I also removed the intercooler to make it easier to access the intake manifold connection. (3) Remove battery tie, disconnect harness and remove front panel of battery box. (4) Then take out the battery and remove 3 bolts at base of box to (5) remove the box completely.
+ click to enlarge images
(1-2) Now you need to remove all the clamps and wires connected to the stock turbo inlet pipe. (3-4) CAREFULLY remove hose from top of turbo inlet pipe. Do not break anything. (5) remove the hose connected to the bottom pipe of the turbo inlet and the recirculation valve. Then loosen the clamp connecting the turbo inlet pipe to the intake manifold, sorry no pic.
+ click to enlarge images
Now with the Turbo inlet pipe removed you can start installing your SURE Motorsports’ Sidewinder. (1) Slide in and clamp up the end of the Sidewinder to the intake manifold. (2) reconnect hose at rear top of Sidewinder. (3) Reconnect hose to bottom of Sidewinder and recirculation valve.
+ click to enlarge images
At this point you can replace your intercooler and battery box. If you bought the Sidewinder, hopefully you bought the Aeros short-ram intake as well. I am not sure about fitment of stock intake on the Sidewinder. If you purchased and are installing the Aeros do not replace the front panel of the battery box at this point. You will do this after you anchor it. See picture 4 below.
Installing your new Aeros Short-ram intake
First, (1) we must remove the old MAF sensor from the stock intake box. (2-3) Then we must attach it to the new Aeros short-ram intake MAF housing. (4) Connect the Aeros to the turbo inlet pipe and clamp it up nice and tight. (5) Position the anchor so that it securely holds the intake in place. Remove the stock bolt and replace over bracket to secure.
+ click to enlarge images
Now you will notice there is a bracket and a plastic pipe leading no where. (1-2) Remove these. As you can see in picture 1 below, the bracket is way to sharp and close for comfort when the filter is on. (3) Now you can install the filter and close up the battery box and connect all sensors. (4) When installing the filter there is a slight edge on the MAF housing. Line up the edge of the filter to this edge and tighten. (5) Do a final check on all clamps and fitment, replace Intercooler cover and reconnect battery and you are done!
+ click to enlarge images
When you initially start up there will be some hesitation in the engine. Do not worry, your ECU has to relearn the new air fuel ratios. This will take about 300-500 miles in total. It will also sound like a jet starting up as it pulls in all that new found air. Super cool!
These are your left over parts. Well, minus the shift weight.
I installed the SURE Countershift weight when I did this as well.
+click image to enlarge
BC Racing Coilover Suspension DIY for Mazdaspeed 3
I received and installed my BC Racing Suspension system the other day. It is pretty simple but does take some time. No spring compressor is necessary, however, there is a bit of brute force needed during certain parts of the installation. So without further delay… How to install the BC racing Suspension on the Mazdaspeed 3.
Where is it:
You will need to lift the car with a lift, 4 jack stands or 2 jack stands if that is all you have handy. just do front and rear separately if need be. You must remove all 4 tires. Remember to loosen the lug nuts before lifting the car off the ground.
+ click images to enlarge
Tools Needed:
- degreaser
- rubber mallet and/or mini-sledgehammer
- needle nose pliers
- flat-head screwdriver
- allen wrench set (metric)
- 12mm-19mm regular and deep socket wrench
- 14mm-19mm wrenches
- long socket wrench to get the proper torque to break the bolts
- socket extension
- Gloves
- suspension adjuster tools that come with the suspension
+ click images to enlarge
What to do:
We will start with the front since they are the hardest to do. (1) After you remove the wheels start removing all the sensors and break line mounts from the strut. (2) To remove the brake line mount use your needle nose and flat-head screwdriver to remove the clamp then (3) push down and slide out hose from bracket and remove bolt at base of strut (4) make sure all bolts on strut have been removed (not pictured: you may have a sensor connected in the center of the sway arm, remove that as well).
+ click images to enlarge
At this point you may be asking, “what about bolts in the engine bay?”. Not yet. Now comes the fun! Get your degreaser and sledgehammer ready. Time to start loosening the strut from the wheel. (1) CAREFULLY start pounding on the cast iron part as shown in the picture below. Hit it firmly and don’t be afraid. you won’t hurt it! but be careful to hit is square every time and not damage anything in the wheel well. Basically, make sure you only hit what is pictured below. Use plenty of degreaser as it starts to loosen. Took me about 10 minutes per strut. (2) Once this is completely loose you can now remove the bolts from within the engine bay and slide out the strut.
Note: there is a tool that will gap the sway arm where the strut inserts into. I didn’t have one so i used the above method.
+ click images to enlarge
Just when you thought the hard part was over… you have to slide the new strut on. (1) insert new strut and tighten down, but not all the way, the new strut in the engine bay. (2) This goes much easier with 2 people and you will want to use the jack to help slide the strut on to the arm. GO VERY SLOWLY as to not damage the car or strut. As one person slowly raises the jack, the other person will align the arm and strut. There is an angle that both should be at that will let it slide in easily (about 15 degrees or so). Use lots of degreaser and patience. You may have to back out and start over multiple times. (3) Also wiggle by hand, bang with sledgehammer, lift slowly until it sets in. Then reconnect all sensors and clamps. It will all line up perfectly. Make sure everything is tight at the base of strut and in the engine bay. Then, Repeat for other side of front suspension.
Note: Either before you put the tires on or before you install the suspension, be sure to adjust your suspension height with the tools provided with the struts. I set mine with an inch gap since it is winter here! Use a tape measure as well to make it as even as possible.
+ click images to enlarge
Now that that Hell is over we can move on to the back suspension. This is much easier in comparison. (1) Remove the rear wheel. (2) Remove rear sway bar 4 bolts on frame. (3) Using the allen wrench and a wrench, remove the sway bar from the connection rods. I chose this point because it was easier to access and loosen the bolts. (4) Once that is done loosen the bolt that connects the strut to the wheel arm at the bottom. (5) then remove the bolt that connects the sway arm and encloses the spring. (6) Now remove the two bolts that hold the strut in place and slide out the strut and spring.
+ click images to enlarge
Now prep your springs. (1) adjust your height as you did for the front. However, this is easier before you install the spring.(2) Now put together your spring. The spacer goes in the smaller circumference end of the spring. (3). at this stage you also want to set the dampening of the strut.
Note: The 2010 mazdaspeed 3 makes it very difficult to adjust this once installed. You have to remove the rear panels in the trunk to access it later. Turn soft all the way, this is position 1. There are 32 points of adjustment in total. I chose 16, half way. As you turn the knob you will feel it click to the next position. Do this 1 to 32 times depending on how you want your ride to feel.
+ click images to enlarge
Now we start installing the strut. (1) slide it on to the bolts and do not tighten all the way at this point, as pictured. (2) Now bolt the strut at the bottom firmly but not all the way. (3) Now we insert the spring and spacer. There is a weld where the top of the spacer is inserted. (4) The notch in the spacer must align around this weld for proper fitment. (5-6) Slide the spring in so that the bottom of the spring fits into the base properly as well.
+ click images to enlarge
(1) Now with the jack you want to lift the sway arm and compress the spring into place. make sure your spacer is around the weld and your spring is properly set at the bottom as you do this. Slide the bolt through and begin tightening bolts. This will take some finessing but far less then the fronts.
+ click images to enlarge
Once this is complete tighten all bolts completely and then do the same for the other side. Once you have fully installed both rear suspensions reattach the rear sway bar. (1) The left over parts are pictured below. (2) The finished product with wheels nicely tucked away!
This installation will take a pro about 2 hours. I am not a pro and it took me 4 hours, especially since I had to figure it out on my own! I have set my struts to 16 front and rear and 32 front and rear and will have a full writeup on it after further testing in the review section shortly.
+ click images to enlarge
Review for SURE Motorsports’ Rear Engine Mount
In this review I will discuss my findings and personal opinion on the 2 types of urethane bushing as well as the engine mount. I drove a total of 3,500 miles with the rear engine mount installed at the time of this review. 1,500 Miles with the 90 durometer and 2,000+ with the 70 durometer bushings. You can also see how easy it is to install from my DIY installation of the SURE Motorsports’ rear engine mount post.
For the first 1,500 miles, I installed the 90 durometer bushings. They are the hardest ones offered by SURE Motorsports and they come in blue. These bushings provided excellent results. Power and responsiveness was drastically increased, wheel hop was completely eliminated and engine vibration was bearable.
At idle without the air conditioner on you could barely notice it. There was a slight vibration in the steering. However, in a low gear or with the air conditioner on the vibration was much more noticeable. When accelerating in 5th and 6th gear at low RPMs you really noticed the vibrations of the engine. Although this may sound bad, it isn’t. It is doing exactly what it should do.
+ click image to enlarge
90 durometer bushings wear and tear after 1500 miles. As you can see to the right, just some dirt and minor scratches. With all that vibration and weight, this picture shows quality more so than any words I put down here.
After 1,500 miles with the 90 durometer I switched over to the 70 durometer which is the black bushing provided by SURE Motorsports. This bushing is much smoother and barely noticeable at the wheel. There is almost no vibration at idle and in low gears. Yet, it keeps the tires from hopping and power where it should be, to the wheels! I do notice that on some surfaces there is a slight wheel hop from time to time but it is minimal and rare as compared to the stock engine mount.
My car is a daily driver that I drive to work, stores, road trips, etc. The versatility of the Mazdaspeed 3 makes it a very practical car for those of us that love to drive spiritedly yet need function as well. With this in mind I chose to stay with the 70 durometer urethane bushings. I only track my car for about 4-5 months a year and in that time I only race about 5-6 weekends. I will possible switch back to the 90 durometer bushing during those months since the install is quick and painless.
Rating:
5 of 5
The SURE Motorsports’ rear engine mount is a quality piece that is a must have for all enthusiasts. The hardcore enthusiast would want to install the 90 durometer while the occasional track runners needing a more practical and versatile car would want to stick with the 70 durometer bushings. Or like me… why not get both! 30 minute install and off to the track you go in full force!